There is something fundamentally wrong with the coffee culture
in the U.S. I was sick of American style espresso – watery,
bitter or super concentrated so you can taste it through 20 ounces
of half soy/half rice milk and a heaping helping of artificial flavors
loaded with high fructose corn syrup. So when I was given the opportunity
to go to Italy and find out what the authentic Italian espresso
experience should be, I jumped. Our plan was to visit the Attibassi
roasting facility in Bologna and then travel to Napoli to learn
about what exactly we are trying to do at Tutta Bella with the espresso
program.
An Attibassi mural in Bologna.The
perfect shot!
We arrived in Bologna March 22nd and checked into the Hotel Regina
that Attibassi graciously arranged for us. We set out immediately
to explore the city, as this was only going to be a 10 day trip
and there was no time to rest.
A
warm reception at Attibassi Headquarters.
I was amazed at all the covered sidewalks (porticos) in Bologna
and completely confused by the layout of the streets (which are
laid out like a spider web). On almost every street there was a
bar and people would gather together inside and out conversing while
sipping espresso and munching on snacks. What I noticed was the
complete lack of paper cups; everyone was sipping espresso out of
ceramic demitasse cups. No wonder everyone looked to be in such
great shape, they weren’t consuming large amounts of milk
and sugar, just espresso, simple and pure. We also stumbled across
my favorite bar in Bologna that day, the Café de Pailes,
where I had my very first Caffé Corretto. This is how espresso
is supposed to be enjoyed, standing at a beautiful bar with a couple
of friends while watching each shot meticulously pulled and sipping
an espresso with a side of grappa. This is how I envision our espresso
bars some day.
Our trip to the Attibassi roasting facility was very informative.
I learned how the beans were roasted and blended to create the Attibassi
blend. I also learned a secret. The secret is that roasters change
the blend for American customers. No wonder I could never get a
shot in Seattle as good as a shot in Italy. People kept telling
me it was the water. That was all just B.S., we were just getting
a different blend designed to be diluted with milk and flavoring.
Touring the Attibassi Roasting Plant.In
the lab.
At Tutta Bella, we insist on serving what the Italians serve (and
have it flown to Seattle weekly). The rest of my time in Bologna
was spent training with an Italian barista introduced to me by Attibassi
and gorging myself on Bolognese cuisine. Then it was off to Naples
for the last half of my trip.
Lessons from a master in the test kitchen.Practicing
technique.
Test beverages. Proudly
displaying a “Shakerato”.
Naples is similar in geography to Seattle, both being in the shadow
of a volcano and nestled in a bay – the only difference is
that Naples is insanely fast-paced. Naples is roughly the same size
as Seattle but it has 4 times as many people. The streets are narrow
and packed with scooters and tiny cars. Crossing the street requires
timing and a little faith that drivers will do the same to time
their speed and trajectory to miss you in the most heart-stopping
way possible. The biggest difference I noticed between America and
Italy was that in Italy people were expected to make the right decisions.
The consequence was an ultra chaotic yet efficient city that could
surprise you at any moment. The espresso and food in Naples was
like the city itself – fast, passionate and flavorful. Almost
everything was done in the traditional way. The laundry would hang
above the streets to dry, the espresso was all pulled from lever
operated machines, and pizzas were cooked in fire.
My experience in Italy taught me a few things. Indeed, there is
a difference between Italian and American espresso. Everything from
the “bean to the cup” – roast, blend, preparation
and presentation was different in Italy. I also learned that new
is not necessarily better. Many of the best things I experienced
in Italy had been done the same way for hundreds of years. So when
it comes to cooking or pulling a shot, the most important tool in
the process is the hand.
My trip to Italy defined my vision for an espresso bar in Seattle
that offers an exceptional hand crafted espresso, great style and
an atmosphere that exudes the hospitality I was able to experience
in my travels.
Visiting the new Attibassi Wine Bar two days before its grand opening.
